Optimizing for Photographing Footwear on Athletes

May 5

In my previous post, I talked about some techniques for photographing footwear, focusing on bringing them into focus and emphasizing the technical aspects of camera settings to improve your success in photographing footwear on athletes.

In this post, I want to discuss more about the logistics of making footwear look as appealing as possible in images.

Btw, if it seems like I am casually speaking during these blog posts it’s because I am. My process is take a voice memo, let AI clean it up grammatically, and then finalize on my computer with images and rearranging a few things. Hopefully it’s okay to track and follow!

look for calf size

Firstly, I consider the models legs. It’s important to look for models that have full legs and calves. You want them to show dynamism, especially in the look of the ankle but it’s also helpful if the foot is full. A slightly wider foot can help fill out the shoe better. You might also supplement this by adding socks or insoles to add a bit more cushion in the shoe. I’ve also noticed a lot of modeling portfolios overlook the importance of calves and don’t have a ton of examples to evaluate talent. We want the shoe to look proportional with a proper fit. I’ve included an example below.

Fill the shoe

In addition to full or wide feet, we generally want shorter feet to minimize shoe size requirements. I've noticed that many athletes often have bigger feet because they are great for explosive movement. The athletes have amazing figures and bodies, but their feet may be slightly longer or thinner, which is something I keep in mind when looking for fit models for footwear. When you have females with shoe sizes like 10 or 10.5, it significantly changes the proportion of the shoe, which looks different in images. I prefer sizes around 7, 7.5, or 8 for females. Although I do work with models who wear size 9, and sometimes it looks okay—I’ll include an example below—it’s important that the subject compensates for it with larger legs, calves, and fuller feet.

Size properly or size down

Be very clear on sizing. There is not nearly as much wiggle room with sizing on shoes as compared to other athletic wear. I always error on shoes being a little tight over a little large and fit check whenever possible. Too big and the shoes won’t look right, too small and the model is going to have a difficult time showing natural movement. I’ve shot models in one or two sizes too small and it’s workable but it not only creates comfort issues but you’re going to see scrunched toes in some images and they create shadows you will have to edit out.

keep it mostly clean

Finally, if you're doing outdoor shoots, footwear is likely to get dirty. Depending on the look you're going for, consider getting booties or something to cover the shoes. I’ve done shoots in the rain or on trails, and it’s so easy for mud to get into the shoes and make it really difficult to continue shooting. Showing the authentic, worn look versus caked in mud are very different things and we are trying to avoid the latter. Having a second set of shoes or the ability to clean them or prevent them from getting muddy is something to consider when photographing footwear.

Other trial and error observations

Some other trial and error observations:

Sock imprints: if a model shows up having worn boots or tight socks, it might seem trivial, but you’ll end up with sock imprints on their leg for an extended period. Be aware of this, and either provide time for those marks to fade or advise your subjects not to wear this kind of footwear on their way to the shoot.
Shaved legs and leg hair color: Particularly in certain environments like cold environments, be mindful that models need to shave their legs beforehand, unless of course you're going for that look. This isn’t always top of mind for them as they might be more focused on hair and makeup, but having stubble around the shoe is super obvious on set and in images. This can lead to lots of editing work and make the editing process difficult. I realize women have leg hair and things but it’s a subject worth discussing - do we want to show this or not.
Goosebumps: Also, on the note about cold environements, if we’re in a chilly environment attempting to shoot to look not quite as chilly, goosebumps are a major factor with stubble or just leg hair in general. I like to keep a good sized parka that models can throw on during takes to stay ahead of being cold. Every time I have asked models to bring layers and be aware of windchill we are never warm enough! It shows in images, particularly workout images where you want more of a sweaty, dewy look. And it makes me feel rushed as a photographer trying to get shots while they are freezing.

Side note - Hygiene

Footwear is a bit different from other clothing items because you're putting your feet into them, so I like to assume models are less likely to share these compared to other clothes. I like to have a pair of socks for the model that they can keep—it’s just not practical to maintain used sock inventory like other types of clothing, such as jackets or t-shirts.